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resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-05-28 15:42] – 109.129.75.193resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-06-03 19:46] – 109.129.58.244
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 I am further interested to generate contexts for creative re-enactments and playful re-interpretation of those resilient practices in our contemporary context, through workshops bringing together elderly and kids/teenagers. I would love to see in these temporarly constitued collectives gathered around this shared practices ‘emerging community of resilient cultural workers’. I wish hereby to activate and investigate ways for intergenerational transfert of knowledge, skills and imaginaries, and see how active forms of relating to the past can contribute to a ‘theory of cultural Resilience’, seen as a challenge to rethink the invention of the cultural and the political.  I am further interested to generate contexts for creative re-enactments and playful re-interpretation of those resilient practices in our contemporary context, through workshops bringing together elderly and kids/teenagers. I would love to see in these temporarly constitued collectives gathered around this shared practices ‘emerging community of resilient cultural workers’. I wish hereby to activate and investigate ways for intergenerational transfert of knowledge, skills and imaginaries, and see how active forms of relating to the past can contribute to a ‘theory of cultural Resilience’, seen as a challenge to rethink the invention of the cultural and the political. 
- 
- 
  
  
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-- **History**, in a Microhistory approach (‘search for large answers in small places’), also Altagsgeschichte (history from ‘below’)+- **History**, according to a Microhistory approach (‘search for large answers in small places’), also Altagsgeschichte (history from ‘below’)
  
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microhistory http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microhistory
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 http://www.osea-cite.org/history/exp_ethnography.php http://www.osea-cite.org/history/exp_ethnography.php
  
-- Experimental ethnography locates the value of the anthropological intervention, however, not in the teleology of the objectified results (e.g., social change, policy/political action, or cultural revitalization), but in the process and, thus, valorizes the actual dynamics of fieldwork as the primary locus where the “real-world” relevance and significance are to be measured, evaluated, and appreciated. »+- Experimental Ethnography locates the value of the anthropological intervention, however, not in the teleology of the objectified results (e.g., social change, policy/political action, or cultural revitalization), but in the process and, thus, valorizes the actual dynamics of fieldwork as the primary locus where the “real-world” relevance and significance are to be measured, evaluated, and appreciated. »
  
 -Fieldwork practices are being “recombined” to explore their utility in the recirculation of given knowledge in a relevant manner by the very activity of the exploratory bricolage. -Fieldwork practices are being “recombined” to explore their utility in the recirculation of given knowledge in a relevant manner by the very activity of the exploratory bricolage.
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 -Bricolage of fieldwork in which concepts, methods, techniques from various fields of art (scenography, museumography, art installation, performance arts) are recombined with the inherited methodologies of anthropology. -Bricolage of fieldwork in which concepts, methods, techniques from various fields of art (scenography, museumography, art installation, performance arts) are recombined with the inherited methodologies of anthropology.
 ** **
-°Anthropology of tranmission  / Generational Anthropology**+°Anthropology of Transmission  / Generational Anthropology**
  
 Transmission is a topic of crucial importance for anthropologists. However few are the studies which make transmission their focal point, a subject for and in itself. In this paper I show how cases of transmission haunt the very foundations of our discipline and how they lie at the back of such notions as memory, re-invention and continuity. I conclude by asking how we can study ethnographically the fleeting reality that is the act of transmission. David Berliner – Anthropologie des Mondes Contemporains. Transmission is a topic of crucial importance for anthropologists. However few are the studies which make transmission their focal point, a subject for and in itself. In this paper I show how cases of transmission haunt the very foundations of our discipline and how they lie at the back of such notions as memory, re-invention and continuity. I conclude by asking how we can study ethnographically the fleeting reality that is the act of transmission. David Berliner – Anthropologie des Mondes Contemporains.
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 ** **
-° Anthropology of cloth+° Anthropology of cloth / Costume History
 ** **
  
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 Out of my desire to collect stories from the past as precious fabrics…. Out of my desire to collect stories from the past as precious fabrics….
 +
 +The most important thing that my journey through textile conservation brought me is a deepening of the understanding of the ethical dimension of my practice, throughout the whole process of the fieldwork (from the encounter to the collecting of the story - of the constitution of a living archive of stories - to the transmission of the past story and their transformation by younger generations)
 +
 +
 +METHODOLOGY / EXPERIENTIAL PART : (in construction)
 +
 +- Phenomenology of the encounter (cf fieldwork)
 +
 +- Assessment of the relational complexity induced by the dynamics of the gift/countergift. (cf fieldwork, the giving/receiving of the stories from the past)
 +
 +- Design spaces/conditions/games to foster creative engagements with the Past, as part of a Living History, (through artisanal textile workshops for older and younger generations, re enacting and reinterpreting DIY text practices from WWII)  -- intergenerational dramaturges
 +
 +
 +[[Some Notes : on my way of hybridizing ethnography with the ethics of textile conservation|Some Notes : on my way of hybridizing ethnography with the ethics of textile conservation]]
 +
 +PROCESS
 +
 +
 +1. DOCUMENTING the research topic
 +
 +Fields of interests :
 +
 +**Débrouillardise**
 +
 + Shortages – rationing– interlace of recyclage and DIY blossoming from bellow / impulsed from above (governmental decrees), as vehiculated by fashion magazines, advertisments, fashion magazines, tips from red cross and women syndicate magazines.
 +
 +Repertory of 
 +- Governmental decrees / rationing tickets
 +-civil societies reactions : from patriotic adhesion to the expression of complaints, black market, smuggling with rationnong tickets, or finding strategies to circumvent the regulations 
 +- punishments in case of contravening the regulations on clothes (procès verbaux)
 +
 +
 +**Coquetterie**
 +
 +dignity – history of the bodies that is sensitive to a memory of emotions and affect (from proudness to shame, the hiding of precariousness) – costume as overstatement/overacting – choregraphies of the body (costume landscapes) – polarization of ideology – class – gender representation – manipulation of the women body through dressing.
 +
 +**
 +Resilience**
 +
 +Moral, social and cultural resilience
 +
 +serie of attitudes for protection (textile as a protective skin) and as potential for creativity comme potentialité créatrice (DIY creativity) , 
 +
 +development of capacities allowing for the psychic transformation of human suffering : in the playfull act of recycling/transforming clothes we find healing strategies for psyche through body dignity and ‘coquetterie’. 
 + 
 +Humour is said to be an important strategy for resilience, a lot of textile practices struck me by their ‘drôlerie’.
 +
 +
 +1.1. consultation of specialized literature, articles and archives
 +
 +1.2. consultation of experts: 
 +
 +**Irène Guenther** 
 +– Specialist in modern German cultural and gender history
 +http://www.uh.edu/honors/about/faculty-staff/irene-guenther.php
 +ivguenth@central.uh.edu
 +« Nazi ‘Chic’? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich »
 +current research on the trench postcard art of German soldiers
 +
 +**Jonathan Walford**
 +Founder and Curatorial Director of Fashion History Museum of Canada, Writer
 +http://www.kickshawproductions.com/
 +wrote « Fourties Fashion, from Siren Suits to the New Look », 2011
 +http://www.thamesandhudson.com/9780500288979.html
 +
 +**Dominique Veillon**
 +
 +« La mode sous l’occupation », 1990, éditions Payot.
 +http://www.ihtp.cnrs.fr/spip.php%3Farticle174&lang=fr.html
 +"Vivre et survivre en France 1939 - 1947", ed Payot, 1995
 +interesting review: http://clio.revues.org/535?&id=535
 +
 +Hannelore Vandebroek, Nel de Mûelenaere, and Carmen Van Praet
 +cf ETUDE :
 +http://www.cegesoma.be/cms/rech_encours_fr.php?article=1301
 +
 +Le travail des femmes dans la fabrique d'uniformes E. Reitz à Merksem, 1940-1944
 +
 +Cette recherche analyse le travail des femmes dans l'industrie de guerre allemande en Belgique. La participation et l'intégration forcée de la femme belge dans l'industrie de guerre allemande pendant la Seconde Guerre mondiale est un thème peu connu dans la mémoire collective. Pour combler cette lacune, Hannelore Vandebroek a, en 2007, entamé une recherche au CEGES qui sonde les expériences de travail des femmes qui ont travaillé pour l'occupant allemand. Elle se focalise principalement sur les femmes qui ont travaillé en Allemagne. En complément,  des recherches sont effectuées depuis novembre 2009 par Nel de Mûelenaere, puis par Carmen Van Praet sur le travail des femmes en Belgique même. Ces recherches ont lieu sur base du cas des ouvrières de la fabrique d'uniformes E. Reitz à Merksem.
 +
 +
 +side note 1 on 1.1
 +
 +contacted Documentation Centers in Brussels
 +
 +- Algemeen Rijksarchief: Magazines, Archief van Winterhulp (umbrella organization that was  responsible for provisioning mainly of food and coals, but also of textiles. This material is not filed, data are very administrative./It can also be interested to consult the christian archives in Flanders. And KAV (christian syndicalist movement for women))
 +
 +-Archief en Museum voor het Vlaamse Leven in Brussel (online archive)/recommend to look also at Archives from the KVS (Koninklijke Vlaamse Schouwburg)
 +
 +- Brussels Museum voor Arbeid en Industrie ‘La Fonderie’
 +mainly about the end of the 19th, beginning of the XXth century. There would be a gap in documentation of the second world war period, they start to have a good documentation from the fifties on. Maybe they have info on the industrial inventories. 
 +
 +My research questions : what was the industrial production level of textile material and where was it requisitionned to (Front de l’Est ?) ; what about labour conditions and entering of the women as workers in the factories, how did the work impacted on women dressing (more practical, introduction of the trouser) do they have propaganda material about women work? 
 +
 +-CINEMATEK
 +access@cinematek.be
 +
 +Filmmaterial will be accessible, there are pictures but they are not filed at all so it will be quasy impossible to consult them
 +
 +Of interest : belgian film production during occupation, document the dressing in documentary films versus fictions, cinematographic advertisment and actualities. What about the ‘costumières’, ‘accessoiristes’ status working on the filmsets and their access to materials ? / same question for the costumières of the Monnaie Opera.
 +
 +Interesting reading : « Henri Storck, le cinéma belge et l'Occupation», Benvindo Bruno, Collection Histoire , Éditions de l'Université de Bruxelles, 2010http://www.ulb.ac.be/oratio/notegen?f_context=unibooks&noteid=500&style=&f_type=view&data-file=bib1
 +
 +-MJB Musée Juif de Belgique
 +
 +-Koninklijk Museum van het Leger en de Krijgsgeschiedenis
 +information about the requisitioning of the materials from the army, and more important : how textiles from the army was on its turn used, transformed or costumized for DIY casual clothing. Does the museum has a collection of parachutes from the english?
 +
 +-Musée National de la Résistance
 +interesting material : double pockets that were sewen to transport weapons.
 +The museum does not have examples of it, but can try to put me in contact with people then involved in Resistance who did such a textile practices.
 +
 +-CEGESOMA, 
 +does have a research center for WW II
 +http://www.cegesoma.be/cms/index_fr.php
 +
 +[[Sidenotes historical readings WII - Tex - Resilience|Sidenotes historical readings WII - Tex - Resilience]]
  
  
  • resilients/debrouillardise_et_coquetterie.txt
  • Last modified: 2013-02-08 07:52
  • by nik