Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

Link to this comparison view

Both sides previous revision Previous revision
Next revision		 Previous revision
Next revisionBoth sides next revision
resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-05-28 18:12] – 109.129.75.193resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-05-28 19:22] – 109.129.75.193
Line 21: Line 21:
  
  
-- **History**, in a Microhistory approach (‘search for large answers in small places’), also Altagsgeschichte (history from ‘below’)+- **History**, according to a Microhistory approach (‘search for large answers in small places’), also Altagsgeschichte (history from ‘below’)
  
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microhistory http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microhistory
Line 36: Line 36:
 http://www.osea-cite.org/history/exp_ethnography.php http://www.osea-cite.org/history/exp_ethnography.php
  
-- Experimental ethnography locates the value of the anthropological intervention, however, not in the teleology of the objectified results (e.g., social change, policy/political action, or cultural revitalization), but in the process and, thus, valorizes the actual dynamics of fieldwork as the primary locus where the “real-world” relevance and significance are to be measured, evaluated, and appreciated. »+- Experimental Ethnography locates the value of the anthropological intervention, however, not in the teleology of the objectified results (e.g., social change, policy/political action, or cultural revitalization), but in the process and, thus, valorizes the actual dynamics of fieldwork as the primary locus where the “real-world” relevance and significance are to be measured, evaluated, and appreciated. »
  
 -Fieldwork practices are being “recombined” to explore their utility in the recirculation of given knowledge in a relevant manner by the very activity of the exploratory bricolage. -Fieldwork practices are being “recombined” to explore their utility in the recirculation of given knowledge in a relevant manner by the very activity of the exploratory bricolage.
Line 42: Line 42:
 -Bricolage of fieldwork in which concepts, methods, techniques from various fields of art (scenography, museumography, art installation, performance arts) are recombined with the inherited methodologies of anthropology. -Bricolage of fieldwork in which concepts, methods, techniques from various fields of art (scenography, museumography, art installation, performance arts) are recombined with the inherited methodologies of anthropology.
 ** **
-°Anthropology of tranmission  / Generational Anthropology**+°Anthropology of Transmission  / Generational Anthropology**
  
 Transmission is a topic of crucial importance for anthropologists. However few are the studies which make transmission their focal point, a subject for and in itself. In this paper I show how cases of transmission haunt the very foundations of our discipline and how they lie at the back of such notions as memory, re-invention and continuity. I conclude by asking how we can study ethnographically the fleeting reality that is the act of transmission. David Berliner – Anthropologie des Mondes Contemporains. Transmission is a topic of crucial importance for anthropologists. However few are the studies which make transmission their focal point, a subject for and in itself. In this paper I show how cases of transmission haunt the very foundations of our discipline and how they lie at the back of such notions as memory, re-invention and continuity. I conclude by asking how we can study ethnographically the fleeting reality that is the act of transmission. David Berliner – Anthropologie des Mondes Contemporains.
Line 49: Line 49:
  
 ** **
-° Anthropology of cloth+° Anthropology of cloth / Costume History
 ** **
  
Line 63: Line 63:
 Out of my desire to collect stories from the past as precious fabrics…. Out of my desire to collect stories from the past as precious fabrics….
  
-The most important thing that my journey through textile conservation brought me is a deepening of the understanding of the ethical dimension of my practice, throughout the whole process of the fieldwork (from the encounter to the collecting of the story - of the constitution of a living archive of stories - to the transmission of the past story and their transformation by younger generations)   +The most important thing that my journey through textile conservation brought me is a deepening of the understanding of the ethical dimension of my practice, throughout the whole process of the fieldwork (from the encounter to the collecting of the story - of the constitution of a living archive of stories - to the transmission of the past story and their transformation by younger generations) 
 + 
 + 
 +METHODOLOGY / EXPERIENTIAL PART : (in construction) 
 + 
 +- Phenomenology of the encounter (cf fieldwork) 
 + 
 +- Assessment of the relational complexity induced by the dynamics of the gift/countergift. (cf fieldwork, the giving/receiving of the stories from the past) 
 + 
 +- Design spaces/conditions/games to foster creative engagements with the Past, as part of a Living History, (through artisanal textile workshops for older and younger generations, re enacting and reinterpreting DIY text practices from WWII)  -- intergenerational dramaturgies 
  
  
Line 206: Line 216:
  
 - how to make a ‘behandelingsrapport’ : identification form of the textile piece, description (from technique to art history background) // condition report every action that is executed on the piece of textile has to be thoroughly documented (through pictures, calques, draing, samples, formulas…) cf. ‘dagboek der werkzaamheden’ - how to make a ‘behandelingsrapport’ : identification form of the textile piece, description (from technique to art history background) // condition report every action that is executed on the piece of textile has to be thoroughly documented (through pictures, calques, draing, samples, formulas…) cf. ‘dagboek der werkzaamheden’
 +
  
 - to make a support fabric and a protection fabric, to learn the most important sewing techniques in this regard - to make a support fabric and a protection fabric, to learn the most important sewing techniques in this regard
 +
  
 Bibliography : Bibliography :
  
 « Textile Conservation: Advances in Practice », ed. By Frances Lennard and Patricia Ewer, 2010  « Textile Conservation: Advances in Practice », ed. By Frances Lennard and Patricia Ewer, 2010 
 +
  
 « Textile conservation and research: a documentation of the textile department on the occasion of the twentieth anniversary of the Abegg Foundation », by Flury-Lemberg, Mechthild, 1988 « Textile conservation and research: a documentation of the textile department on the occasion of the twentieth anniversary of the Abegg Foundation », by Flury-Lemberg, Mechthild, 1988
 +
  
 « The textile conservator's manual » by Landi Sheila, Butterworths series in conservation and museology, 1985 « The textile conservator's manual » by Landi Sheila, Butterworths series in conservation and museology, 1985
 +
 +
 +
 +PROCESS
 +
 +
 +1. DOCUMENTING the research topic
 +
 +1.1. consultation of specialized literature, articles and archives
 +
 +1.2. consultation of experts: 
 +
 +**Irène Guenther** 
 +– Specialist in modern German cultural and gender history
 +http://www.uh.edu/honors/about/faculty-staff/irene-guenther.php
 +ivguenth@central.uh.edu
 +« Nazi ‘Chic’? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich »
 +current research on the trench postcard art of German soldiers
 +
 +**Jonathan Walford**
 +Founder and Curatorial Director of Fashion History Museum of Canada, Writer
 +http://www.kickshawproductions.com/
 +wrote « Fourties Fashion, from Siren Suits to the New Look », 2011
 +http://www.thamesandhudson.com/9780500288979.html
 +
 +**Dominique Veillon**
 +
 +« La mode sous l’occupation », 1990, éditions Payot.
 +http://www.ihtp.cnrs.fr/spip.php%3Farticle174&lang=fr.html
 +"Vivre et survivre en France 1939 - 1947", ed Payot, 1995
 +interesting review: http://clio.revues.org/535?&id=535
 +
 +
 +It interest me to collecting data, facts and stories that contradicts the big narratives, that are puzzling, surprising, funny. 
 +
 +**Débrouillardise**
 +
 + Shortages – rationing– interlace of recyclage and DIY blossoming from bellow / impulsed from above (governmental decrees), as vehiculated by fashion magazines, advertisments, ‘presse feminine’, tips from croix rouge and women syndicate magazines.
 +
 +Repertory of 
 +- Governmental decrees / rationing tickets
 +-civil societies reactions : from patriotic adhesion to the expression of complaints, black market, smuggling with rationnong tickets, or finding strategies to circumvent the regulations 
 +- punishments in case of contravening the regulations on clothes (procès verbaux)
 +
 +
 +**Coquetterie**
 +
 +dignity – history of the bodies that is sensitive to a memory of emotions and affect (from proudness to shame, the hiding of precariousness) – costume as overstatement/overacting – choregraphies of the body (costume landscapes) – polarization of ideology – class – gender representation – manipulation of the women body through dressing.
 +
 +**
 +Resilience**
 +
 +Moral, social and cultural resilience
 +
 +serie of attitudes for protection (textile as a protective skin) and as potential for creativity comme potentialité créatrice (DIY creativity) , 
 +
 +development of capacities allowing for the psychic transformation of human suffering : in the playfull act of recycling/transforming clothes we find healing strategies for psyche through body dignity and ‘coquetterie’. 
 + 
 +Humour is said to be an important strategy for resilience, a lot of textile practices struck me by their ‘drôlerie’.
 +
 +
 +
 +
 +2.FIELDWORK
 +studies of concrete people, places, sites, groups or organisations, with observations and conclusions drawn from the study:
 +
 +
 +3. INTERVIEWS combined with some drops of consciousness /ethical-conservational reflections. Issue of how to (des)archive the testimonies.
 +
 +4.CASE STUDIES
 +summarising, describing, reflecting on and presenting the results of particular interventions, public experiments, or other focussed activities.
 +
 +
 +
 +
  
                                          
  • resilients/debrouillardise_et_coquetterie.txt
  • Last modified: 2013-02-08 07:52
  • by nik