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resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-05-28 18:14] – 109.129.75.193resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-05-28 19:22] – 109.129.75.193
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-- **History**, in a Microhistory approach (‘search for large answers in small places’), also Altagsgeschichte (history from ‘below’)+- **History**, according to a Microhistory approach (‘search for large answers in small places’), also Altagsgeschichte (history from ‘below’)
  
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microhistory http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microhistory
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 http://www.osea-cite.org/history/exp_ethnography.php http://www.osea-cite.org/history/exp_ethnography.php
  
-- Experimental ethnography locates the value of the anthropological intervention, however, not in the teleology of the objectified results (e.g., social change, policy/political action, or cultural revitalization), but in the process and, thus, valorizes the actual dynamics of fieldwork as the primary locus where the “real-world” relevance and significance are to be measured, evaluated, and appreciated. »+- Experimental Ethnography locates the value of the anthropological intervention, however, not in the teleology of the objectified results (e.g., social change, policy/political action, or cultural revitalization), but in the process and, thus, valorizes the actual dynamics of fieldwork as the primary locus where the “real-world” relevance and significance are to be measured, evaluated, and appreciated. »
  
 -Fieldwork practices are being “recombined” to explore their utility in the recirculation of given knowledge in a relevant manner by the very activity of the exploratory bricolage. -Fieldwork practices are being “recombined” to explore their utility in the recirculation of given knowledge in a relevant manner by the very activity of the exploratory bricolage.
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 -Bricolage of fieldwork in which concepts, methods, techniques from various fields of art (scenography, museumography, art installation, performance arts) are recombined with the inherited methodologies of anthropology. -Bricolage of fieldwork in which concepts, methods, techniques from various fields of art (scenography, museumography, art installation, performance arts) are recombined with the inherited methodologies of anthropology.
 ** **
-°Anthropology of tranmission  / Generational Anthropology**+°Anthropology of Transmission  / Generational Anthropology**
  
 Transmission is a topic of crucial importance for anthropologists. However few are the studies which make transmission their focal point, a subject for and in itself. In this paper I show how cases of transmission haunt the very foundations of our discipline and how they lie at the back of such notions as memory, re-invention and continuity. I conclude by asking how we can study ethnographically the fleeting reality that is the act of transmission. David Berliner – Anthropologie des Mondes Contemporains. Transmission is a topic of crucial importance for anthropologists. However few are the studies which make transmission their focal point, a subject for and in itself. In this paper I show how cases of transmission haunt the very foundations of our discipline and how they lie at the back of such notions as memory, re-invention and continuity. I conclude by asking how we can study ethnographically the fleeting reality that is the act of transmission. David Berliner – Anthropologie des Mondes Contemporains.
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 ** **
-° Anthropology of cloth+° Anthropology of cloth / Costume History
 ** **
  
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 Out of my desire to collect stories from the past as precious fabrics…. Out of my desire to collect stories from the past as precious fabrics….
  
-The most important thing that my journey through textile conservation brought me is a deepening of the understanding of the ethical dimension of my practice, throughout the whole process of the fieldwork (from the encounter to the collecting of the story - of the constitution of a living archive of stories - to the transmission of the past story and their transformation by younger generations)   +The most important thing that my journey through textile conservation brought me is a deepening of the understanding of the ethical dimension of my practice, throughout the whole process of the fieldwork (from the encounter to the collecting of the story - of the constitution of a living archive of stories - to the transmission of the past story and their transformation by younger generations) 
 + 
 + 
 +METHODOLOGY / EXPERIENTIAL PART : (in construction) 
 + 
 +- Phenomenology of the encounter (cf fieldwork) 
 + 
 +- Assessment of the relational complexity induced by the dynamics of the gift/countergift. (cf fieldwork, the giving/receiving of the stories from the past) 
 + 
 +- Design spaces/conditions/games to foster creative engagements with the Past, as part of a Living History, (through artisanal textile workshops for older and younger generations, re enacting and reinterpreting DIY text practices from WWII)  -- intergenerational dramaturgies 
  
  
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 « The textile conservator's manual » by Landi Sheila, Butterworths series in conservation and museology, 1985 « The textile conservator's manual » by Landi Sheila, Butterworths series in conservation and museology, 1985
 +
 +
 +
 +PROCESS
 +
 +
 +1. DOCUMENTING the research topic
 +
 +1.1. consultation of specialized literature, articles and archives
 +
 +1.2. consultation of experts: 
 +
 +**Irène Guenther** 
 +– Specialist in modern German cultural and gender history
 +http://www.uh.edu/honors/about/faculty-staff/irene-guenther.php
 +ivguenth@central.uh.edu
 +« Nazi ‘Chic’? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich »
 +current research on the trench postcard art of German soldiers
 +
 +**Jonathan Walford**
 +Founder and Curatorial Director of Fashion History Museum of Canada, Writer
 +http://www.kickshawproductions.com/
 +wrote « Fourties Fashion, from Siren Suits to the New Look », 2011
 +http://www.thamesandhudson.com/9780500288979.html
 +
 +**Dominique Veillon**
 +
 +« La mode sous l’occupation », 1990, éditions Payot.
 +http://www.ihtp.cnrs.fr/spip.php%3Farticle174&lang=fr.html
 +"Vivre et survivre en France 1939 - 1947", ed Payot, 1995
 +interesting review: http://clio.revues.org/535?&id=535
 +
 +
 +It interest me to collecting data, facts and stories that contradicts the big narratives, that are puzzling, surprising, funny. 
 +
 +**Débrouillardise**
 +
 + Shortages – rationing– interlace of recyclage and DIY blossoming from bellow / impulsed from above (governmental decrees), as vehiculated by fashion magazines, advertisments, ‘presse feminine’, tips from croix rouge and women syndicate magazines.
 +
 +Repertory of 
 +- Governmental decrees / rationing tickets
 +-civil societies reactions : from patriotic adhesion to the expression of complaints, black market, smuggling with rationnong tickets, or finding strategies to circumvent the regulations 
 +- punishments in case of contravening the regulations on clothes (procès verbaux)
 +
 +
 +**Coquetterie**
 +
 +dignity – history of the bodies that is sensitive to a memory of emotions and affect (from proudness to shame, the hiding of precariousness) – costume as overstatement/overacting – choregraphies of the body (costume landscapes) – polarization of ideology – class – gender representation – manipulation of the women body through dressing.
 +
 +**
 +Resilience**
 +
 +Moral, social and cultural resilience
 +
 +serie of attitudes for protection (textile as a protective skin) and as potential for creativity comme potentialité créatrice (DIY creativity) , 
 +
 +development of capacities allowing for the psychic transformation of human suffering : in the playfull act of recycling/transforming clothes we find healing strategies for psyche through body dignity and ‘coquetterie’. 
 + 
 +Humour is said to be an important strategy for resilience, a lot of textile practices struck me by their ‘drôlerie’.
 +
 +
 +
 +
 +2.FIELDWORK
 +studies of concrete people, places, sites, groups or organisations, with observations and conclusions drawn from the study:
 +
 +
 +3. INTERVIEWS combined with some drops of consciousness /ethical-conservational reflections. Issue of how to (des)archive the testimonies.
 +
 +4.CASE STUDIES
 +summarising, describing, reflecting on and presenting the results of particular interventions, public experiments, or other focussed activities.
 +
 +
 +
 +
  
                                          
  • resilients/debrouillardise_et_coquetterie.txt
  • Last modified: 2013-02-08 07:52
  • by nik