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resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-05-28 19:22] 109.129.75.193resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-05-28 19:25] 109.129.75.193
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-PROCESS 
  
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-1. DOCUMENTING the research topic 
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-1.1. consultation of specialized literature, articles and archives 
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-1.2. consultation of experts:  
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-**Irène Guenther**  
-– Specialist in modern German cultural and gender history 
-http://www.uh.edu/honors/about/faculty-staff/irene-guenther.php 
-ivguenth@central.uh.edu 
-« Nazi ‘Chic’? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich » 
-current research on the trench postcard art of German soldiers 
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-**Jonathan Walford** 
-Founder and Curatorial Director of Fashion History Museum of Canada, Writer 
-http://www.kickshawproductions.com/ 
-wrote « Fourties Fashion, from Siren Suits to the New Look », 2011 
-http://www.thamesandhudson.com/9780500288979.html 
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-**Dominique Veillon** 
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-« La mode sous l’occupation », 1990, éditions Payot. 
-http://www.ihtp.cnrs.fr/spip.php%3Farticle174&lang=fr.html 
-"Vivre et survivre en France 1939 - 1947", ed Payot, 1995 
-interesting review: http://clio.revues.org/535?&id=535 
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-It interest me to collecting data, facts and stories that contradicts the big narratives, that are puzzling, surprising, funny.  
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-**Débrouillardise** 
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- Shortages – rationing– interlace of recyclage and DIY blossoming from bellow / impulsed from above (governmental decrees), as vehiculated by fashion magazines, advertisments, ‘presse feminine’, tips from croix rouge and women syndicate magazines. 
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-Repertory of  
-- Governmental decrees / rationing tickets 
--civil societies reactions : from patriotic adhesion to the expression of complaints, black market, smuggling with rationnong tickets, or finding strategies to circumvent the regulations  
-- punishments in case of contravening the regulations on clothes (procès verbaux) 
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-**Coquetterie** 
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-dignity – history of the bodies that is sensitive to a memory of emotions and affect (from proudness to shame, the hiding of precariousness) – costume as overstatement/overacting – choregraphies of the body (costume landscapes) – polarization of ideology – class – gender representation – manipulation of the women body through dressing. 
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-** 
-Resilience** 
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-Moral, social and cultural resilience 
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-serie of attitudes for protection (textile as a protective skin) and as potential for creativity comme potentialité créatrice (DIY creativity) ,  
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-development of capacities allowing for the psychic transformation of human suffering : in the playfull act of recycling/transforming clothes we find healing strategies for psyche through body dignity and ‘coquetterie’.  
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-Humour is said to be an important strategy for resilience, a lot of textile practices struck me by their ‘drôlerie’. 
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-2.FIELDWORK 
-studies of concrete people, places, sites, groups or organisations, with observations and conclusions drawn from the study: 
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-3. INTERVIEWS combined with some drops of consciousness /ethical-conservational reflections. Issue of how to (des)archive the testimonies. 
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-4.CASE STUDIES 
-summarising, describing, reflecting on and presenting the results of particular interventions, public experiments, or other focussed activities. 
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  • resilients/debrouillardise_et_coquetterie.txt
  • Last modified: 2013-02-08 07:52
  • by nik