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resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-06-03 19:11] – 109.129.58.244 | resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-06-03 19:48] – 109.129.58.244 | ||
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- | [[Some Notes on my personal methodological approach|Some Notes on my personal methodological approach]] | + | [[Some Notes : on my way of hybridizing ethnography with the ethics of textile conservation|Some Notes : on my way of hybridizing ethnography with the ethics of textile conservation]] |
+ | PROCESS | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | 1. DOCUMENTING the research topic | ||
+ | |||
+ | Fields of interests : | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Débrouillardise** | ||
+ | |||
+ | | ||
+ | |||
+ | Repertory of | ||
+ | - Governmental decrees / rationing tickets | ||
+ | -civil societies reactions : from patriotic adhesion to the expression of complaints, black market, smuggling with rationnong tickets, or finding strategies to circumvent the regulations | ||
+ | - punishments in case of contravening the regulations on clothes (procès verbaux) | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | **Coquetterie** | ||
+ | |||
+ | dignity – history of the bodies that is sensitive to a memory of emotions and affect (from proudness to shame, the hiding of precariousness) – costume as overstatement/ | ||
+ | |||
+ | ** | ||
+ | Resilience** | ||
+ | |||
+ | Moral, social and cultural resilience | ||
+ | |||
+ | serie of attitudes for protection (textile as a protective skin) and as potential for creativity comme potentialité créatrice (DIY creativity) , | ||
+ | |||
+ | development of capacities allowing for the psychic transformation of human suffering : in the playfull act of recycling/ | ||
+ | |||
+ | Humour is said to be an important strategy for resilience, a lot of textile practices struck me by their ‘drôlerie’. | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | 1.1. consultation of specialized literature, articles and archives | ||
+ | |||
+ | 1.2. consultation of experts: | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Irène Guenther** | ||
+ | – Specialist in modern German cultural and gender history | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | ivguenth@central.uh.edu | ||
+ | « Nazi ‘Chic’? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich » | ||
+ | current research on the trench postcard art of German soldiers | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Jonathan Walford** | ||
+ | Founder and Curatorial Director of Fashion History Museum of Canada, Writer | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | wrote « Fourties Fashion, from Siren Suits to the New Look », 2011 | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Dominique Veillon** | ||
+ | |||
+ | « La mode sous l’occupation », 1990, éditions Payot. | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | "Vivre et survivre en France 1939 - 1947", ed Payot, 1995 | ||
+ | interesting review: http:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | Hannelore Vandebroek, Nel de Mûelenaere, | ||
+ | cf ETUDE : | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | Le travail des femmes dans la fabrique d' | ||
+ | |||
+ | Cette recherche analyse le travail des femmes dans l' | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | side note 1 on 1.1 | ||
+ | |||
+ | contacted Documentation Centers in Brussels | ||
+ | |||
+ | - Algemeen Rijksarchief: | ||
+ | |||
+ | -Archief en Museum voor het Vlaamse Leven in Brussel (online archive)/ | ||
+ | |||
+ | - Brussels Museum voor Arbeid en Industrie ‘La Fonderie’ | ||
+ | mainly about the end of the 19th, beginning of the XXth century. There would be a gap in documentation of the second world war period, they start to have a good documentation from the fifties on. Maybe they have info on the industrial inventories. | ||
+ | |||
+ | My research questions : what was the industrial production level of textile material and where was it requisitionned to (Front de l’Est ?) ; what about labour conditions and entering of the women as workers in the factories, how did the work impacted on women dressing (more practical, introduction of the trouser) do they have propaganda material about women work? | ||
+ | |||
+ | -CINEMATEK | ||
+ | access@cinematek.be | ||
+ | |||
+ | Filmmaterial will be accessible, there are pictures but they are not filed at all so it will be quasy impossible to consult them | ||
+ | |||
+ | Of interest : belgian film production during occupation, document the dressing in documentary films versus fictions, cinematographic advertisment and actualities. What about the ‘costumières’, | ||
+ | |||
+ | Interesting reading : « Henri Storck, le cinéma belge et l' | ||
+ | |||
+ | -MJB Musée Juif de Belgique | ||
+ | |||
+ | -Koninklijk Museum van het Leger en de Krijgsgeschiedenis | ||
+ | information about the requisitioning of the materials from the army, and more important : how textiles from the army was on its turn used, transformed or costumized for DIY casual clothing. Does the museum has a collection of parachutes from the english? | ||
+ | |||
+ | -Musée National de la Résistance | ||
+ | interesting material : double pockets that were sewen to transport weapons. | ||
+ | The museum does not have examples of it, but can try to put me in contact with people then involved in Resistance who did such a textile practices. | ||
+ | |||
+ | -CEGESOMA, | ||
+ | does have a research center for WW II | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[Sidenotes historical readings WII - Tex - Resilience|Sidenotes historical readings WII - Tex - Resilience]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[Communities of Resilients // from the perspective of Clothing as a resistance strategy|Communities of Resilients // from the perspective of Clothing as a resistance strategy]] | ||