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resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-06-03 19:16] – 109.129.58.244resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-06-03 20:02] – 109.129.58.244
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 [[Some Notes : on my way of hybridizing ethnography with the ethics of textile conservation|Some Notes : on my way of hybridizing ethnography with the ethics of textile conservation]] [[Some Notes : on my way of hybridizing ethnography with the ethics of textile conservation|Some Notes : on my way of hybridizing ethnography with the ethics of textile conservation]]
  
 +PROCESS
 +
 +
 +1. DOCUMENTING the research topic
 +
 +Fields of interests :
 +
 +**Débrouillardise**
 +
 + Shortages – rationing– interlace of recyclage and DIY blossoming from bellow / impulsed from above (governmental decrees), as vehiculated by fashion magazines, advertisments, fashion magazines, tips from red cross and women syndicate magazines.
 +
 +Repertory of 
 +- Governmental decrees / rationing tickets
 +-civil societies reactions : from patriotic adhesion to the expression of complaints, black market, smuggling with rationnong tickets, or finding strategies to circumvent the regulations 
 +- punishments in case of contravening the regulations on clothes (procès verbaux)
 +
 +
 +**Coquetterie**
 +
 +dignity – history of the bodies that is sensitive to a memory of emotions and affect (from proudness to shame, the hiding of precariousness) – costume as overstatement/overacting – choregraphies of the body (costume landscapes) – polarization of ideology – class – gender representation – manipulation of the women body through dressing.
 +
 +**
 +Resilience**
 +
 +Moral, social and cultural resilience
 +
 +serie of attitudes for protection (textile as a protective skin) and as potential for creativity comme potentialité créatrice (DIY creativity) , 
 +
 +development of capacities allowing for the psychic transformation of human suffering : in the playfull act of recycling/transforming clothes we find healing strategies for psyche through body dignity and ‘coquetterie’. 
 + 
 +Humour is said to be an important strategy for resilience, a lot of textile practices struck me by their ‘drôlerie’.
 +
 +
 +1.1. consultation of specialized literature, articles and archives
 +
 +[[contacted archive centers for resilient WWII textiles|contacted archive centers for resilient WWII textiles]] 
 +
 +1.2. consultation of experts: 
 +
 +**Irène Guenther** 
 +– Specialist in modern German cultural and gender history
 +http://www.uh.edu/honors/about/faculty-staff/irene-guenther.php
 +ivguenth@central.uh.edu
 +« Nazi ‘Chic’? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich »
 +current research on the trench postcard art of German soldiers
 +
 +**Jonathan Walford**
 +Founder and Curatorial Director of Fashion History Museum of Canada, Writer
 +http://www.kickshawproductions.com/
 +wrote « Fourties Fashion, from Siren Suits to the New Look », 2011
 +http://www.thamesandhudson.com/9780500288979.html
 +
 +**Dominique Veillon**
 +
 +« La mode sous l’occupation », 1990, éditions Payot.
 +http://www.ihtp.cnrs.fr/spip.php%3Farticle174&lang=fr.html
 +"Vivre et survivre en France 1939 - 1947", ed Payot, 1995
 +interesting review: http://clio.revues.org/535?&id=535
 +
 +Hannelore Vandebroek, Nel de Mûelenaere, and Carmen Van Praet
 +cf ETUDE :
 +http://www.cegesoma.be/cms/rech_encours_fr.php?article=1301
 +
 +Le travail des femmes dans la fabrique d'uniformes E. Reitz à Merksem, 1940-1944
 +
 +Cette recherche analyse le travail des femmes dans l'industrie de guerre allemande en Belgique. La participation et l'intégration forcée de la femme belge dans l'industrie de guerre allemande pendant la Seconde Guerre mondiale est un thème peu connu dans la mémoire collective. Pour combler cette lacune, Hannelore Vandebroek a, en 2007, entamé une recherche au CEGES qui sonde les expériences de travail des femmes qui ont travaillé pour l'occupant allemand. Elle se focalise principalement sur les femmes qui ont travaillé en Allemagne. En complément,  des recherches sont effectuées depuis novembre 2009 par Nel de Mûelenaere, puis par Carmen Van Praet sur le travail des femmes en Belgique même. Ces recherches ont lieu sur base du cas des ouvrières de la fabrique d'uniformes E. Reitz à Merksem.
 +
 +[[Sidenotes historical readings WII - Tex - Resilience|Sidenotes historical readings WII - Tex - Resilience]]
 +
 +[[Communities of Resilients // from the perspective of Clothing as a resistance strategy|Communities of Resilients // from the perspective of Clothing as a resistance strategy]]
  
  
  • resilients/debrouillardise_et_coquetterie.txt
  • Last modified: 2013-02-08 07:52
  • by nik