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resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-06-03 19:48] – 109.129.58.244resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2013-02-08 07:52] (current) – nik
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 ==== Débrouillardise et Coquetterie ==== ==== Débrouillardise et Coquetterie ====
  
-notes from a [[:resilients]] residency +notes from a [[:resilients]] residency. Coralie Stalberg, April - May 2012
  
-Coralie Stalberg, April - May 2012 +===PRESENTATION===
- +
- +
-**PRESENTATION**+
  
 **“Débrouillardise et Coquetterie”** is a project on DIY textile practices and associated recycling strategies during a historical period characterized by a radical scarcity of material resources — the Second World War and the years right after the war. In the context of research for a resilient future that would be more sensitive and committed to sustainability, it’s quite possible that the inventive solutions imagined by all kinds of people for coping with resource shortages in their everyday realities during the war period can be inspiring for us now, and constitute a playful toolbox to experiment with… **“Débrouillardise et Coquetterie”** is a project on DIY textile practices and associated recycling strategies during a historical period characterized by a radical scarcity of material resources — the Second World War and the years right after the war. In the context of research for a resilient future that would be more sensitive and committed to sustainability, it’s quite possible that the inventive solutions imagined by all kinds of people for coping with resource shortages in their everyday realities during the war period can be inspiring for us now, and constitute a playful toolbox to experiment with…
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-** +===METHODOLOGY / THEORETICAL===  
-METHODOLOGY / THEORETICAL PART : at the crossroad of History, Ethnography and Textile Conservation.** +at the crossroad of History, Ethnography and Textile Conservation.
  
-- **History**, according to a Microhistory approach (‘search for large answers in small places’), also Altagsgeschichte (history from ‘below’)+**History**, according to a Microhistory approach (‘search for large answers in small places’), also Altagsgeschichte (history from ‘below’)
  
-http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microhistory +  * http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microhistory 
-http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alltagsgeschichte +  * http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alltagsgeschichte 
-http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annales_School+  * http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annales_School
  
 An inspiring text from Dominique Veillon : http://www.ihtp.cnrs.fr/spip.php%3Farticle240&lang=fr.html An inspiring text from Dominique Veillon : http://www.ihtp.cnrs.fr/spip.php%3Farticle240&lang=fr.html
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 http://www.cairn.info/revue-terrain-2010-2-page-4.htm http://www.cairn.info/revue-terrain-2010-2-page-4.htm
  
-** +**Anthropology of cloth / Costume History**
-° Anthropology of cloth / Costume History +
-**+
  
 « Pour une anthropologie du vêtement »  Yves Delaporte, CNRS/Musée de l’Homme « Pour une anthropologie du vêtement »  Yves Delaporte, CNRS/Musée de l’Homme
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-METHODOLOGY / EXPERIENTIAL PART : (in construction)+===Methodology / Experiential (in construction)===
  
-- Phenomenology of the encounter (cf fieldwork)+  * Phenomenology of the encounter (cf fieldwork) 
 +  * Assessment of the relational complexity induced by the dynamics of the gift/countergift. (cf fieldwork, the giving/receiving of the stories from the past) 
 +  * Design spaces/conditions/games to foster creative engagements with the Past, as part of a Living History, (through artisanal textile workshops for older and younger generations, re enacting and reinterpreting DIY text practices from WWII)  -- intergenerational dramaturges
  
-- Assessment of the relational complexity induced by the dynamics of the gift/countergift. (cf fieldwork, the giving/receiving of the stories from the past) 
  
-- Design spaces/conditions/games to foster creative engagements with the Past, as part of a Living History, (through artisanal textile workshops for older and younger generations, re enacting and reinterpreting DIY text practices from WWII)  -- intergenerational dramaturges+[[Some Notes on my way of hybridizing ethnography with the ethics of textile conservation]]
  
 +====Process====
  
-[[Some Notes : on my way of hybridizing ethnography with the ethics of textile conservation|Some Notes : on my way of hybridizing ethnography with the ethics of textile conservation]] 
  
-PROCESS +===DOCUMENTING the research topic===
- +
- +
-1. DOCUMENTING the research topic+
  
 Fields of interests : Fields of interests :
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 dignity – history of the bodies that is sensitive to a memory of emotions and affect (from proudness to shame, the hiding of precariousness) – costume as overstatement/overacting – choregraphies of the body (costume landscapes) – polarization of ideology – class – gender representation – manipulation of the women body through dressing. dignity – history of the bodies that is sensitive to a memory of emotions and affect (from proudness to shame, the hiding of precariousness) – costume as overstatement/overacting – choregraphies of the body (costume landscapes) – polarization of ideology – class – gender representation – manipulation of the women body through dressing.
  
-** +===Resilience===
-Resilience**+
  
 Moral, social and cultural resilience Moral, social and cultural resilience
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 1.1. consultation of specialized literature, articles and archives 1.1. consultation of specialized literature, articles and archives
 +
 +[[contacted archive centers for resilient WWII textiles|contacted archive centers for resilient WWII textiles]] 
  
 1.2. consultation of experts:  1.2. consultation of experts: 
  
 **Irène Guenther**  **Irène Guenther** 
 +
 – Specialist in modern German cultural and gender history – Specialist in modern German cultural and gender history
 http://www.uh.edu/honors/about/faculty-staff/irene-guenther.php http://www.uh.edu/honors/about/faculty-staff/irene-guenther.php
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 **Jonathan Walford** **Jonathan Walford**
 +
 Founder and Curatorial Director of Fashion History Museum of Canada, Writer Founder and Curatorial Director of Fashion History Museum of Canada, Writer
 http://www.kickshawproductions.com/ http://www.kickshawproductions.com/
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 Cette recherche analyse le travail des femmes dans l'industrie de guerre allemande en Belgique. La participation et l'intégration forcée de la femme belge dans l'industrie de guerre allemande pendant la Seconde Guerre mondiale est un thème peu connu dans la mémoire collective. Pour combler cette lacune, Hannelore Vandebroek a, en 2007, entamé une recherche au CEGES qui sonde les expériences de travail des femmes qui ont travaillé pour l'occupant allemand. Elle se focalise principalement sur les femmes qui ont travaillé en Allemagne. En complément,  des recherches sont effectuées depuis novembre 2009 par Nel de Mûelenaere, puis par Carmen Van Praet sur le travail des femmes en Belgique même. Ces recherches ont lieu sur base du cas des ouvrières de la fabrique d'uniformes E. Reitz à Merksem. Cette recherche analyse le travail des femmes dans l'industrie de guerre allemande en Belgique. La participation et l'intégration forcée de la femme belge dans l'industrie de guerre allemande pendant la Seconde Guerre mondiale est un thème peu connu dans la mémoire collective. Pour combler cette lacune, Hannelore Vandebroek a, en 2007, entamé une recherche au CEGES qui sonde les expériences de travail des femmes qui ont travaillé pour l'occupant allemand. Elle se focalise principalement sur les femmes qui ont travaillé en Allemagne. En complément,  des recherches sont effectuées depuis novembre 2009 par Nel de Mûelenaere, puis par Carmen Van Praet sur le travail des femmes en Belgique même. Ces recherches ont lieu sur base du cas des ouvrières de la fabrique d'uniformes E. Reitz à Merksem.
  
 +[[Sidenotes historical readings WII - Tex - Resilience|Sidenotes historical readings WII - Tex - Resilience]]
  
-side note 1 on 1.1+[[Communities of Resilients // from the perspective of Clothing as a resistance strategy|Communities of Resilients // from the perspective of Clothing as a resistance strategy]]
  
-contacted Documentation Centers in Brussels 
  
-- Algemeen Rijksarchief: Magazines, Archief van Winterhulp (umbrella organization that was  responsible for provisioning mainly of food and coals, but also of textiles. This material is not filed, data are very administrative./It can also be interested to consult the christian archives in Flanders. And KAV (christian syndicalist movement for women))+===FIELDWORK===
  
--Archief en Museum voor het Vlaamse Leven in Brussel (online archive)/recommend to look also at Archives from the KVS (Koninklijke Vlaamse Schouwburg)+Senior centers interested in participation : 
 +  - Résidence Arcadia (elderly house Molebeek/OCMW) 
 +  - LDC Randstad (social restaurant for Seniors, Molenbeek)  
 +  - the Institut Pachéco (elderly house in 1000 Brussels),  
 +  - ‘Ages et Transmissions’: http://www.agesettransmissions.be/?lang=at 
 +  - ‘La Mémoire Vivante’ : http://www.memoirevivante.be/
  
-- Brussels Museum voor Arbeid en Industrie ‘La Fonderie’ 
-mainly about the end of the 19th, beginning of the XXth century. There would be a gap in documentation of the second world war period, they start to have a good documentation from the fifties on. Maybe they have info on the industrial inventories.  
  
-My research questions : what was the industrial production level of textile material and where was it requisitionned to (Front de l’Est ?) ; what about labour conditions and entering of the women as workers in the factories, how did the work impacted on women dressing (more practical, introduction of the trouser) do they have propaganda material about women work? +The first interviews: 
 +  * [[interview therese from uccle|Thérèse from Uccle]] 
 +  * [[interview jeanne and jacoba from pacheco|Jeanne and Jacoba from Pachéco]] 
 +  * [[interview jeanne van molenbeek|Jeanne van Molenbeek]]
  
--CINEMATEK 
-access@cinematek.be 
  
-Filmmaterial will be accessible, there are pictures but they are not filed at all so it will be quasy impossible to consult them+Observations /ethical-conservational reflections.(des)archive the testimonies. 
 +(in process)
  
-Of interest : belgian film production during occupation, document the dressing in documentary films versus fictions, cinematographic advertisment and actualities. What about the ‘costumières’, ‘accessoiristes’ status working on the filmsets and their access to materials ? / same question for the costumières of the Monnaie Opera.+====4.CASE STUDIES :: intergenerational workshops==== 
 +(in construction)
  
-Interesting reading : « Henri Storck, le cinéma belge et l'Occupation», Benvindo Bruno, Collection Histoire , Éditions de l'Université de Bruxelles, 2010http://www.ulb.ac.be/oratio/notegen?f_context=unibooks&noteid=500&style=&f_type=view&data-file=bib1 
  
--MJB Musée Juif de Belgique+====5. TOWARD A LIVING ARCHIVE====
  
--Koninklijk Museum van het Leger en de Krijgsgeschiedenis +Search for critical/playful archive practices
-information about the requisitioning of the materials from the army, and more important : how textiles from the army was on its turn used, transformed or costumized for DIY casual clothing. Does the museum has a collection of parachutes from the english?+
  
--Musée National de la Résistance +Philosophy
-interesting material : double pockets that were sewen to transport weapons. +
-The museum does not have examples of it, but can try to put me in contact with people then involved in Resistance who did such a textile practices.+
  
--CEGESOMA,  +Michel Foucault « The Archeology of Knowledge » : Chapter 5: The Historical a priori and the Archive
-does have a research center for WW II +
-http://www.cegesoma.be/cms/index_fr.php+
  
-[[Sidenotes historical readings WII - Tex - Resilience|Sidenotes historical readings WII - Tex - Resilience]]+Discursive practices involve systems that allow statements to emerge as 'events' and to be used or ignored as 'things.' Foucault proposes to call these systems of statements, collectively, the 'archive.' Thus, the archive is not just a collection of texts that define a culture, nor even a set of institutions that preserve texts. The archive is 'the law of what can be said' and the law of how what is said is transformed, used, preserved, etc. Thus, the archive is defined as 'the general system of the formulation and transformation of statements.'Our own, contemporary archive is impossible to describe clearly because it is the very thing that gives what we say its mode of emergence and existence. It is 'that which, outside ourselves, delimits us.' 
 + 
 +Paul Ricoeur « Arcives, Documents, Traces » 
 +http://www.scribd.com/doc/77205673/Archives-Documents-Traces-Paul-Ricoeur 
 + 
 +“Any trace left by the past becomes a document for historians […], the most valuable traces are the ones that were not intended for our information.” (2006: 67) 
 + 
 +Giorgio Agamben « The Archive and the Testimony » in « Remnants of Auschwit », 1989  
 +http://www.scribd.com/doc/83522559/Giorgio-Agamben-The-Archive-and-Testimony-1 
 +“the archive is situated between langue, as the system of construction of possible sentences – that is, of possibilities of speaking – and the corpus that unites the set of what has been said, the things actually uttered or written.” 
 + 
 + 
 + 
 +Archive Practices in Contemporary Art 
 + 
 +General writings : 
 + 
 +Schaffner, Ingrid et Matthias Winzen (éditeurs). 1998. Deep storage: collecting, storing, and archiving in art. Munich ; New York : Prestel, 303 p. 
 +Mokhtari Sylvie (éditeur). 2004. Les Artistes contemporains et l'Archive. Interrogation sur le sens du temps et de la mémoire à l'ère de la numérisation. Rennes : Presses universitaires de Rennes, 282 p.   
 + 
 +Dans Archive Fever Enwezor     :   production de « contre-archives », affirmant que « les archives sont tributaires de leur fonction d’autorité manifeste en tant que source principale de vérité historique » 
 + 
 +Aby M. Warburg, «Mnemosyne-Atlas», 1924 – 1929  Mnemosyne-Atlas, Boards of the Rembrandt-Exhibition, 1926 | 
 +http://www.mediaartnet.org/works/mnemosyne/ 
 + 
 +Gerhard Richter, « Atlas », 1962 
 +http://www.mediaartnet.org/works/atlas/images/3/ 
 + 
 + 
 +==== Interviews ==== 
 +  * [[interview jeanne and jacoba from pacheco]] 
 +  * [[interview jeanne van molenbeek]] 
 +  * [[interview therese from uccle]] 
 + 
 +==== Notes on methodology==== 
 +  * [[some_notes_on_my_personal_methodological_approach]] 
 +  * [[some_notes_on_my_way_of_hybridizing_ethnography_with_the_ethics_of_textile_conservation]] 
 + 
 +----
  
-[[Communities of Resilients // from the perspective of Clothing as a resistance strategy|Communities of Resilients // from the perspective of Clothing as a resistance strategy]] 
  
  
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